Kokatahi – Pinnacle Biv – Adventure Biv – Toaroha

The lower Kokatahi valley to Crawford Junction has a reputation as being one of the more wild and unforgiving places on the West Coast.  With rough overgrown tracks, massive slips, tough river side travel, and a legendary class V kayak run,  it is one of the few sections of valley in the Hokitika basin I had not ventured into.  More recently, with members of the Permolat group undertaking hut and track clearing work, the Kokatahi was on my mind more than usual, and it finally seemed like the right time to experience this revered valley for myself.

Early on a clear and cold Saturday morning I set off up the Kokatahi with the intention of firstly heading to Boo Boo Hut and Pinnacle Biv, before traversing the Toaroha Rangle to Zit Saddle and Adventure Biv.  Travel is initially good going on river flats and river side, and it wasn't long before I was getting in my stride, and dreaming of the what lay in the valley ahead.  After an hour or so I spooked a decent looking stag and a hind on the track in the bush/river edge.  With this being a rare occurrence, I took the time to watched the stag gesticulate, and then bound across the river.  The hind had moved further downstream along the river bank by this stage, and shortly afterwards join the stag on the river flats on the other side. 

At the bridge across the Kokatahi

Soon after this encounter I arrived at the start of the Kokatahi gorges and the bridge across the river.  A short climb followed by a decent got me to Adamson Creek, from where the track begun the gradual ascent to the terraces where Boo Boo Hut is situated.  In a couple of spots the bush was teeming with prolific bird life.  Thanks to Permolat the track is now in great condition, and apart from a few windfalls, creek/gully crossing, and losing the track once, I was pleasantly surprised at the ease in which I arrived at the hut in only 3 and a half hours.

A delightful cascade

With plenty of time up my sleeve I set about repairing the leaking roof around the chimney with sealant a previous party had left for the job.  Once this was done I started up the route to Pinnacle Biv in beautiful warm and sunny weather some time after midday.

While somewhat overgrown, I found the route to be very followable, only having to back track a couple of times.  Reaching the bush line at about 950m elevation, the views of the Kokatahi valley and peaks were great.

Whitehorn Ridge

 

Looking up the Kokatahi to Crawford Junction and the Main Divide

At the bush line halfway up the hill to Pinnacle Biv

From bush line the route travels through a mixture of scrub and thick tussock, and while fairly distinct it definitely becomes more labourious.  After a short descent from Pt 1085 it was time to head up the final big slope to Crinkle Top.  With half a foot of slippery snow on the ground, keeping my balance and footing was always a struggle, and I was glad to reach Pinnacle Biv after 3 hours from Boo Boo Hut.

The ascent ridge and Tyndalls Knob

After checking out the accommodation and taking a short rest, it was time to collect some water from the frozen tarn, and then head up up to Crinkle Top to watch the sunset.  Everything was going to plan, and after a good dinner of chilli con carne and rice I settled in for the night.

Genoa Peak at sunset

In the early hours the wind started howling, and by day break gusty easterly gales were in full force.  The Main Divide was obscured, with clouds and snow showers spilling over onto the West Coast ranges.  This was not exactly in my good weather calculations, and ruled out going further along my intended route for the time being.  While going back downhill was an option, I was prepared to sit it out and hope for better weather later in the day.

Pinnacle Biv – A 5 star sanctuary from the storm

The biv felt solid in the gales, and I took some comfort in the knowledge it had no doubt been able to survive much more extreme weather in the decades since it was built.  With no sign of any improvement in the weather, the day was spent resting, sleeping, and doing a bit of reading, while always monitoring the sound of the wind, and regularly opening the door to take a look.  While I was nice and warm, the rate at which water was freezing in the bivs billy indicated it was definitely getting colder.

About 24 hours after the gales started, the frequency of the strong gusts decrease, and their force started to abate.  With the cloud pulling back towards the Main Divide revealing stars overhead, things were definitely starting to look more positive.  At day break the weather was looking good enough, and it was an easy decision to quickly pack up and get going on my intended route.

Genoa Peak and Lake Kaniere

Shin deep snow in tussocks initially slowed me up a bit, but once on the ridge to Genoa Peak the route was free of snow and ice.  Once I reached the summit the snow conditions were thin and hard, and I decided it was a wise move to clip on the crampons.  I continued on to Pt 1608 from where I got a good look at the route to Mt Reeves.

On the way to Mt Reeves

The weather didn't seem to getting any worse and I had plenty of visibility.  I usually try and pick my time in the mountains to coincide with very favourable weather conditions for safety reasons, and because I like to complete my journeys first time around with a view.  But less favourable weather is also something to enjoy, as it definitely brings a different feel to the mountain experience, and adds a level of uncertainty.  With lite snow falling, the occasion strong wind gust blasting spindrift, and the sun making brief appearances from behind the clouds, the mood of the environment was ever changing.  

With the exception of 2 steeper sections, the ascent of Mt Reeves was straight forward, and 3 hours after setting out from Pinnacle Biv I reached the summit.  I carefully negotiated some hard thin icy sections on the decent to Zit Saddle, and had I had another day to spare, I would have continued along the ridges to Toaroha Saddle.
  

Zit Saddle from Adventure Biv

Immediately after starting the decent to Adventure Biv the snow conditions changed, becoming deeper, soft and slippery, and definitely slow hard going for anyone heading up hill.  After the initial step descent the route flattens off after a stream crossing, and it was again a matter of trying to stay upright on unsure footing.

Looking across the Toaroha to Jumble Top

From Adventure Biv the track enters the bush and descends steeply to the valley floor.  By this time the weather was really starting to clear, and the warmth and luxury of Cedar Flat was amazing.  Running ahead of schedule I had a quick soak in the Wren Creek hot pools which were bathed in sunshine.  I was definitely in a good mood as I made my way to the Toaroha road end, having just experienced such a memorable and wonderful day in the mountains.

My enthusiasm and motivation for further trips is high, and a full traverse of the Toaroha and Diedrichs Ranges beckons.  Also the Kokatahi from Boo Boo Hut to Crawford Junction, which I fully expect will provide a sterner test than the lower section of the valley.