Adventure West Coast: Kokatahi Alpine Traverse

With the country in the grip of drought and endless fine weather on the West Coast it was time to get out there make the most of it. After a planned trip to Queenstown and the Citroen Race didn't eventuate we decided to head into the Hokitika backcountry. With 5 days up our sleeve William and I started out up the Toaroha Valley at lunchtime on a Thursday with no exact route in mind but plenty of ideas.

First stop was to check out the waterfall in the Toaroha Canyon – accessed via the obvious big slip starting just above the track before it descends to Cedar Flats.

Toaroha Canyon waterfall

Looking down the Toaroha Canyon below the waterfall

After a short stop at Cedar Flats we opted for the valley route and made it to the Crystal Biv junction by 8pm to sleep on the track under the trees.

It had been over 10 years since I had done my 2 previous trips in the Hokitika backcountry (Frew/Toaroha Saddle & Lathrop/Zit Saddle circuits) and I was keen to come up with as good as or even better trip. Some time during the night it came to me – we were going to have a crack at an alpine traverse of the Kokatahi catchment from the Toaroha to Browning Pass. With us both having a liking for open tops travel, the motto was go high and stay high!

Yeats Ridge and the Toaroha Valley

After breakfast Crystal Biv came soon enough but it was well after lunch before we made it to the top of the Toaroha Range and Mt Chamberlain. And it was still a long way to go to reach our goal of Clarkes Pass that evening.

Finally made it to the tops above Crystal Biv with the Kokatahi catchment below

View toward the big mountains at the head of the Whitcombe

Pristine alpine flowers in abundance despite the drought

The descent of Bastion Ridge was steep and required care but was manageable in the good dry conditions. From here the going got a lot easier and faster and we were able to make good time to Pt 2006.

After descending from Bastion Ridge the going gets a bit easier toward Pt 2006

Progress was further aided by wonderful glissading conditions decending from Pt 2006. After a short climb we reached Mt Ambrose and Commodore Peak in fading light.

Looking toward Mt Ambrose from Pt 2006

Continuing on we reached Clarkes Pass some time after dark where the only thing missing for a good night was water. So began the long trudge down the scree of the upper Clarke Creek in search of the liquid stuff. After some considerable time and distance streams entered from the true right. After cooking dinner and with it close to midnight, we settled down between the alpine shrubbery for the night. In hindsight camping out between Pt 2006 and Mt Ambrose would have been a good option with there being plenty of water emerging from the bottom of the snow fields..

Heading back up to the main ridge

After a slow start the next morning we began the climb up to the main range – heading up scree slopes which lead to the basins below Mt Fitzgerald. The clouds started coming in a bit, but a clearance now and again allowed us to get our bearings (or so we thought). We ended up climbing the very impressive Pt 1948 thinking it was Mt Fitzgerald, only to discover shortly afterwards while descending the ridge that we were heading straight for Crawford Junction.

On the western flanks of Mt Fitzgerald

Looking toward Griffiths Saddle from Mt Fitzgerald

Two hours later after rock scrambling over ridges and ascending Mt Fitzgerald and Mt Griffiths we could see our straight forward route down to Farquharson Saddle. By this stage the weather had begun to deteriorate as a southerly front passed through.

The weather starting to pack in a bit as we head down toward Farquharson Saddle

The front was short lived and by evening the sun was appearing from behind the clouds providing a wonderful setting as we headed up towards Mt Walter from Farquharson Saddle.

Below Walter Peak

Upon reaching the ridge to the south of Mt Walter we got our first glimpse of Browning Pass. Given the late hour the decision was made to head back down hill for 10 minutes to a good looking camp site.

Looking toward Browning Pass in the late evening from below Mt Walter

A beautiful morning at our camp below Mt Walter

The next morning we headed on a northerly diagonal up the flanks of Mt Walter before dropping to Grave Col. From here it was a straight forward climb to the head of the Marshall Ridge. The upper most section of this ridge looked dicey so after checking out the route to Hall Col, heading down Hall Stream was chosen as the preferred descent option.

Browning Pass from the top of Marshall Ridge

Nice rock on the way down to Hall Col

Hall Stream

The snow fields in Hall Stream were in perfect glissading condition and it wasn't long before we were resting in the sun in the lower valley reflecting on a superb trip. After checking out the waterfalls in Hall Creek we made the final short ascent to Browning Pass.