Victoria Range – Pinnacle to Mt Haast

Pinnacle

Alpine flowers

Getting closer to Pt 1483

Up the gut to Pt 1483

Conical Hill

View from Conical Hill towards Mt Puttick

Getting closer to Mt Puttick

Sunset at camp below Mt Puttick

Ridges traversed the previous day

Up the ridge to Mt Puttick

At the top of Mt Puttick

Ridge descended from Mt Puttick

Getting closer to Mt Haast

Springs Junction from Mt Haast

Waimangaroa Gorge

The top of the Denniston Incline is a rather unusual spot to start a kayaking trip.  With 450 vertical metres to the valley floor, it is a long way down through the steep bush to the Waimangaroa River.  I have known about the kayaking potential of the Waimangaroa Gorge for some years, having previously walked its length on numerous occasions looking for good access routes.  I had even gotten my boat down the hill 5 years ago for some kayaking at a low flow.  With kayaking enthusiasm and ability at a high, dropping into the gorge again was definitely on the wish list for the spring/summer.

With the heavy rainfall warning for Friday not amounting too much, conditions were potentially ideal for a Waimangaroa Gorge run.  Shea and I headed out in the early afternoon to Waimangaroa where we found the river to be high at the main road bridge.  With much of the rain having past, the river no doubt dropping fast, and about 2 hours until we would reach the put-in, we reckoned the timing might just be right.  So it was up the hill to Denniston and the top of the Incline where he hastily got ourselves ready for the trip.  It was noticeably cooler than down on the plains and a gusty southerly wind was blowing.  But as soon as we dropped into the bush below the Banbury Arch we were sheltered.

The route downhill is on the true right of the creek which drains from below the Banbury Arch making best use of the available slopes, stream gully's, and ridge lines.  This creek joins the Waimangaroa opposite a large historic slip and about 1.5km below the Burnett Stream confluence.  The going through the bush is initially steep and involves a significant amount of boat lowering on slippery ground.   The mid section is less steep and boats can be carried, but as the river is approached the bush becomes thicker and viney.  Ninety minutes after leaving the top of the Incline we were stoked to finally reach the river, which was running at a perfect medium flow and looking just gorgeous. 

Heading upstream to the put-in

We didn't need much encouragement to head upstream for a bit so that we could run some of the Class IV on offer.  It also gave us a chance to get a look at the steeper Class V rapids just up river.  Heading upstream along the river bank was hard work, and is not an option for making further progress due to large boulders and the impinging river which block the way.

Just below where we put on

At the same spot last summer.  Just add water!

The weather was clearing and with the sun coming out it was a wonderful setting.  The first move was a nice 1m boof beside a rock in the middle of the river.  There were about 20 Class III/IV rapids downstream and the river was generally harder than the normal Waimangaroa walk-in run.  Nearly all rapids could be boat scouted and provided for fun eddy hopping and river running.

The river upstream was looking spectacular

A closer look at un-run Class V on the Waimangaroa

Class IV rapids downstream from the put-in

At the top of one of the longer and bigger rapids

The nice drop at the bottom

The only rapid which provided for some unscripted action was Carnage Corner.  I though a left line was good to go and ran it without taking a decent look.  After being back flipped in the hole and reportedly catching another couple of ends I was washed out.  Shea later styled a more central line in the big Tuna.

Shea checking out Carnage Corner

First drop on the normal Waimangaroa walk-in section

The river eases off before the start of the normal Waimangaroa walk-in section.  This section is now very familiar to both of us and felt easy at this medium flow.  The top of the Incline looks a long way from the bottom and appears to reach into the sky.  The climb back to the car provided for a fittingly strenuous end to the day, and half an hour later the 5 hour round trip was complete.   

The challenge is again on to find a route into the Waimangaroa Gorge which gets us further upstream and provides for the best ratio of kayaking to access and portaging difficulty.  There is some steep country up there with the river dropping 150m in about 1.5km between the Burnett Stream confluence and our recent put-in spot.  Looking at last summers photos at low water there are definitely some good looking rapids and drops up there.  How runnable they are, and at what flow, time will tell!

One of the bigger drops in the Upper Waimangaroa Gorge at low flow

Chasm Creek Abandoned

With a heavy rainfall warning out for Monday it was shaping up as a good day for a bit of boating.  By 1:30pm Shea and I were heading north out of Westport with high hopes of getting on to Chasm Creek for the first time since mid January.  Things were looking good as the Waimanagaroa River was definitely up and running at a high flow - a must if the Chasm is to have enough water.  The weather was definitely stormy with plenty of wind, rain, and occasional thunder and lightning. 

On the drive to Seddonville and the Chasm none of the small side creeks we passed were particularly high.  But with plenty of time in hand we were determined to at least go and take a look at the Chasm.  And if there wasn't enough water there we could always head back to the Waimangaroa.  Arriving at the Chasm Creek Bridge No. 2 (the take-out for the Chasm run) the water level was on the low side of good, but nonetheless runnable and definitely worth a go.

Chasm Creek at the Bridge No. 2 was at a reasonable flow

We drove up the old forestry roads and walked the last section with boats and gear to the Chasm put-in area.  Half and hour after leaving the Bridge No. 2 we stood on the Upper Chasm Bridge. It was very clear that there had been some serious rain in the hills as the creek was raging and getting close to a full blown flood.  A wall of water was currently descending the Chasm.

Looking downstream from the Upper Chasm bridge with the river in high flow

With some uncertainty about the high flow - it being many times higher than on previous trips - and the obvious dangers of putting on to a rising river, we decided to wait a while and see what happened.  We wanted it high but not quite that high.

In the mean time we decided to leave the boats and walk up to the Upper Chasm section for a look - accessed via the 4WD at the start of the Glasgow Range track.  This upper section is steeper and has most likely not been previously paddled.  At this super high flow it was looking like a very serious proposition.  Steep and very continuous with no eddies and no margin for error.  We made our way down the side of the Upper Chasm, bush bashing and checking out the river as we went.

The steeper section of the Upper Chasm

A wider angle view

Shea at one of the nicer looking drops

The same spot as above during the February droughts earlier in the year.  Just add water!

Arriving back at the Chasm put-in area after about an hour and a half, the Upper Chasm was now higher than it had been previously, and Tate Creek had turned from brownish to greyish.  With no sign of the rivers dropping to manageable levels until some time during the night, we abandoned Chasm Creek in favour of some boating on the Waimangaroa River on the way home.
 

Back at the Upper Chasm bridge the river had risen even higher

The forestry road was now a little running stream and the Mokihinui River was a huge monster indicating there had been some really heavy rain in the headwaters.  By 5:30pm we were putting on below the under-cut rapid for some fun big water laps of the lower Waimangaroa River.

Back at Chasm Creek Bridge No. 2

Full flood on the Chasm

The Mokihinui River near the coast

This trip highlights the difficulty of catching the west coast heavy rain runs at the right level.  If only there was 24 hour daylight and you could just sit and wait at the put-in for the river to drop to the right level.  Perhaps this will be the biggest rain event of spring with the Buller River peaking at 800 cumecs @ Longford during the night.  Hopefully it won't be too long before we are back at the Chasm with a little less water and a little better timing.  Watch this space!

Kokatahi – Pinnacle Biv – Adventure Biv – Toaroha

The lower Kokatahi valley to Crawford Junction has a reputation as being one of the more wild and unforgiving places on the West Coast.  With rough overgrown tracks, massive slips, tough river side travel, and a legendary class V kayak run,  it is one of the few sections of valley in the Hokitika basin I had not ventured into.  More recently, with members of the Permolat group undertaking hut and track clearing work, the Kokatahi was on my mind more than usual, and it finally seemed like the right time to experience this revered valley for myself.

Early on a clear and cold Saturday morning I set off up the Kokatahi with the intention of firstly heading to Boo Boo Hut and Pinnacle Biv, before traversing the Toaroha Rangle to Zit Saddle and Adventure Biv.  Travel is initially good going on river flats and river side, and it wasn't long before I was getting in my stride, and dreaming of the what lay in the valley ahead.  After an hour or so I spooked a decent looking stag and a hind on the track in the bush/river edge.  With this being a rare occurrence, I took the time to watched the stag gesticulate, and then bound across the river.  The hind had moved further downstream along the river bank by this stage, and shortly afterwards join the stag on the river flats on the other side. 

At the bridge across the Kokatahi

Soon after this encounter I arrived at the start of the Kokatahi gorges and the bridge across the river.  A short climb followed by a decent got me to Adamson Creek, from where the track begun the gradual ascent to the terraces where Boo Boo Hut is situated.  In a couple of spots the bush was teeming with prolific bird life.  Thanks to Permolat the track is now in great condition, and apart from a few windfalls, creek/gully crossing, and losing the track once, I was pleasantly surprised at the ease in which I arrived at the hut in only 3 and a half hours.

A delightful cascade

With plenty of time up my sleeve I set about repairing the leaking roof around the chimney with sealant a previous party had left for the job.  Once this was done I started up the route to Pinnacle Biv in beautiful warm and sunny weather some time after midday.

While somewhat overgrown, I found the route to be very followable, only having to back track a couple of times.  Reaching the bush line at about 950m elevation, the views of the Kokatahi valley and peaks were great.

Whitehorn Ridge

 

Looking up the Kokatahi to Crawford Junction and the Main Divide

At the bush line halfway up the hill to Pinnacle Biv

From bush line the route travels through a mixture of scrub and thick tussock, and while fairly distinct it definitely becomes more labourious.  After a short descent from Pt 1085 it was time to head up the final big slope to Crinkle Top.  With half a foot of slippery snow on the ground, keeping my balance and footing was always a struggle, and I was glad to reach Pinnacle Biv after 3 hours from Boo Boo Hut.

The ascent ridge and Tyndalls Knob

After checking out the accommodation and taking a short rest, it was time to collect some water from the frozen tarn, and then head up up to Crinkle Top to watch the sunset.  Everything was going to plan, and after a good dinner of chilli con carne and rice I settled in for the night.

Genoa Peak at sunset

In the early hours the wind started howling, and by day break gusty easterly gales were in full force.  The Main Divide was obscured, with clouds and snow showers spilling over onto the West Coast ranges.  This was not exactly in my good weather calculations, and ruled out going further along my intended route for the time being.  While going back downhill was an option, I was prepared to sit it out and hope for better weather later in the day.

Pinnacle Biv – A 5 star sanctuary from the storm

The biv felt solid in the gales, and I took some comfort in the knowledge it had no doubt been able to survive much more extreme weather in the decades since it was built.  With no sign of any improvement in the weather, the day was spent resting, sleeping, and doing a bit of reading, while always monitoring the sound of the wind, and regularly opening the door to take a look.  While I was nice and warm, the rate at which water was freezing in the bivs billy indicated it was definitely getting colder.

About 24 hours after the gales started, the frequency of the strong gusts decrease, and their force started to abate.  With the cloud pulling back towards the Main Divide revealing stars overhead, things were definitely starting to look more positive.  At day break the weather was looking good enough, and it was an easy decision to quickly pack up and get going on my intended route.

Genoa Peak and Lake Kaniere

Shin deep snow in tussocks initially slowed me up a bit, but once on the ridge to Genoa Peak the route was free of snow and ice.  Once I reached the summit the snow conditions were thin and hard, and I decided it was a wise move to clip on the crampons.  I continued on to Pt 1608 from where I got a good look at the route to Mt Reeves.

On the way to Mt Reeves

The weather didn't seem to getting any worse and I had plenty of visibility.  I usually try and pick my time in the mountains to coincide with very favourable weather conditions for safety reasons, and because I like to complete my journeys first time around with a view.  But less favourable weather is also something to enjoy, as it definitely brings a different feel to the mountain experience, and adds a level of uncertainty.  With lite snow falling, the occasion strong wind gust blasting spindrift, and the sun making brief appearances from behind the clouds, the mood of the environment was ever changing.  

With the exception of 2 steeper sections, the ascent of Mt Reeves was straight forward, and 3 hours after setting out from Pinnacle Biv I reached the summit.  I carefully negotiated some hard thin icy sections on the decent to Zit Saddle, and had I had another day to spare, I would have continued along the ridges to Toaroha Saddle.
  

Zit Saddle from Adventure Biv

Immediately after starting the decent to Adventure Biv the snow conditions changed, becoming deeper, soft and slippery, and definitely slow hard going for anyone heading up hill.  After the initial step descent the route flattens off after a stream crossing, and it was again a matter of trying to stay upright on unsure footing.

Looking across the Toaroha to Jumble Top

From Adventure Biv the track enters the bush and descends steeply to the valley floor.  By this time the weather was really starting to clear, and the warmth and luxury of Cedar Flat was amazing.  Running ahead of schedule I had a quick soak in the Wren Creek hot pools which were bathed in sunshine.  I was definitely in a good mood as I made my way to the Toaroha road end, having just experienced such a memorable and wonderful day in the mountains.

My enthusiasm and motivation for further trips is high, and a full traverse of the Toaroha and Diedrichs Ranges beckons.  Also the Kokatahi from Boo Boo Hut to Crawford Junction, which I fully expect will provide a sterner test than the lower section of the valley.

Waimangaroa River – Westport's Home Run

As a kayaker one of the joys of living in Westport is the close proximity of the Waimangaroa River – our backyard run.  A 15km drive north to Waimangaroa and a 15-20 minute walk gets you to the put in of one of the better after work runs in the country.  While no more than class III/IV, it definitely has still got enough going on to keep you concentrating, and provides the necessary whitewater fix which keeps you coming back again and again.  Of course the only thing you need is a bit of heavy rain – which doesn't come often enough for my likening – and you are doing well if you manage to get out on the run a dozen times a year.

From the Waimangaroa settlement a gravel road heads up the south bank of the river for a little over a kilometre before reaching the bottom of the Denniston Incline.  After leaving the carpark on foot the track soon crosses Conns Creek and is then rejoined a little way above river level.  If the Conns Creek crossing is up to your waist, and you are starting to have second thoughts about whether or not this is such a good idea, then the Waimangaroa is starting to get really high.

The track follows an old railway line which is long abandoned but nonetheless provides good access up the river.  After 500m the track ends at the Crossing where it is necessary to cross the river to continue further upstream.  From the Crossing to Conns Creek it is class III, and above the Crossing it is class IV.

One of the better parts of the track on the way to the Crossing

The Crossing rapid

On the opposite side of the river the track is rejoined after climbing up a small rockfall.  Upstream of the Crossing the track is harder going, but it's only about 200-300m to the put in (shortly after the tunnel).  At the put in there is a nice spot to do some ferry glides, and the first rapid also provides a bit of a warm up before the business starts.

Hard right is the standard line on the first drop.  The big rock on river left is undercut, but I have only ever seen someone go under there once, and it flushed pretty quick.

 

The first drop

  From here it is pretty busy through the next few rapids to the bottom of the Crossing rapid.

Below the first drop

 

At the top of the Crossing rapid after a bit more rain

Below the Crossing the river eases up to class III until Conns Creek, from where the river steepens and there are a couple of class IV rapids to negotiate.
 

Rapid below the Conns Creek confluence

The infamous Undercut is the final rapid of note, and while not overly difficult, the potential consequences of getting yourself somewhere where you shouldn't be makes it one of the more serious rapids on the river.  The big rock on the left forms a large underwater cavern through which a significant amount of flow passes.  It is not be underestimated and has been the scene of some potentially very nasty incidents over the years.

The infamous Undercut rapid

Below the Undercut rapid there are some nice class III rapids before the river flattens off to class II.  If the river is high enough and you are interested, the rock groyne a further 1.5km downstream (at the railway and road bridges) can provide some entertainment.